"Where're ya heading?" The man shouts out of the window of his car.
"Mexico" I shout back, grinning. No-one expects this answer.
"Ya kidding?" He nearly falls out of his car in disbelief, but quickly recovers to shake my hand. Gayle is pulling into the lay-by as his wife comes over to join us.
"Isn't it beautiful!" Gayle is smiling - probably because the skies are starting to clear and the rain is behind us. In front of us is a glorious view of the hills surrounding the lake.
Ken and Angela are from Toronto. Ken tells me he used to cycle until he had a problem with his knee. He stopped cycling and gained weight. But last year he discovered e-bikes and now he's cycling again. They insist on giving us their egg butties. I want to refuse, we have some lunch, but they insist and Gayle is happy to accept. They also give us some fruit and, while I'm not looking, Angela slips Gayle a pack of vegetables. While we're standing there chatting the two lads from Montreal cycle past. I notice they're wearing Viking helmets. Gallic humour.
Setting off again along the lake shore we finally begin to climb. It's a long straight drag up the hill and out of the national park. We pass some roadworkers at a false summit. Looking up to the next summit Gayle asks one of them "Is that it?" He grins and nods, yes. Before we descend down the other side we come to a view point with a couple of picnic benches and pit toilets. We stop for lunch and gaze across to the southern hills of the park. Over there is the strange geological feature of the park - a plateau of barren rock that has been pushed up out of the earth's crust. We can't see it. But we get a great view anyway.
The onward ride is fast for us - a long downhill that throws us out on the main highway at Deer Lake. It's a service town. We do some laundry at the Visitor Centre and load up on supplies before heading out along the rail trail that cuts directly east across the middle of the island. This trail will save us a huge amount of kilometres on the highway and take us close to the highest point in Newfoundland. Except the trail has been bombed. Or at least it looks like it has. It's rocky and pitted and really bad to cycle. Also, there's nowhere to camp. So we pull off it and find some wasteland on the edge of town to camp. We decide to take the highway instead. I'm really dsappointed but in hindsight it turns out to be the right decision. We later read a cyclist's account of his TransCanadian ride and one day where he rides only 25km, on this very same stretch of rail trail. He describes it as his worst day in the whole ride.