a tale of two cities

I'm sure that the British soldier who drew a green line across Nicosia in the early 60's didn't expect it would still be found on maps today.  It would be very simplistic to blame the imperial British for the division that still rents Cyprus today.  I mean, it's not like we've got form on this kind of mess - notwithstanding, er, Kashmir and, um, Palestine.The line was originally drawn up to put an end to skirmishes and attacks by Cypriot Nationalists on the Turkish Cypriot minority.  Hmmm, Popular Nationalism.  It still doesn't wear well these days.

First impressions of Lefkosa indicate the south has come out of it better off than the north.  The south of the city is bigger, more developed and in general in better condition. But maybe the cracks after the 2012 crisis have just been papered over.  The old walled city which was once at the heart of the country is now in the peculiar position of being at the edge of two new countries.  The green line here is demarcated by graffiti-strewn corrugated iron barricades and sand-bagged sentry posts, but the military presence is quite low-key.  There are two pedestrian crossings which are controlled by police and seem quite relaxed.  Nationals can come and go to either side which means that northerners can come south for work. 

quite a lot of street art on the south side

a reference to the execution of the archbishop by the Ottoman pasha back in 1821.  You don't see this kind of historical referencing in much street art - talk about long-held grudges.

 

We are staying in a modern airbnb appartment on the northern side.  The owner is a young, Turkish computer engineer who first came here on his national service.  The Turkish Northern Republic of Cyprus is only officially recognised by Turkey and subsidised heavily by them.  Meanwhile everyone else recognises the whole island as the Republic of Cyprus and even the northeners are considered citizens of the EU. But while reconciliation talks are notionally being undertaken by both sides, an economic embargo remains in force on the North. At least there is no more killing.

The old city has plenty to offer us as we amble around on both sides for a few days.  The old city is awash with marvellous old stone houses, churches, mosques and monuments, and the old walls still stand.  There are art deco appartments and shop fronts, Ottoman-era merchants' houses, British colonial government buildings and lovely neighbourhoods in various stages of neglect or renovation.  Tour groups from the coastal resorts are guided around but there is a blue line to follow the Green Line on both sides.

The current openness in the city can't diminish the tragic consequences of the divide and the conflicts that led to it.  As visitors, all we can do is wander and wonder at what the city would have been like before it was fractured.  Around the main crossing are shops and stalls selling the usual tourist tat.  On the south side is a noticeable presence of immigrants from Asia and Africa and they are more visible on Friday at the large mosque that has survived on the southern side.  It seems the old city has been abandoned in places but is slowly being reclaimed. 

a fixer-upper (potential Grand Design) on the south side

 

Septimus Severus, The Roman Emperor who died in England, (probably caught a cold, judging from this outfit).  Thank goodness we don't remember our leaders in this way.

from the National Museum, which has a great collection